Don Julio 1942 Anejo
With the humidex now cranking us up into 30 degrees plus territory, we’re definitively in summer patio party season—popular stomping grounds for the summery spirit known (and sometimes feared) as tequila. Those willing to venture beyond margaritas blended with ice or poured out of a giant pitcher, however, will find a large variety of brands and grades to browse and sample. This rundown might not be enough to erase bad memories of Too Many Shots Night back in university, but it should convince you that you don’t need salt and a lime slice to enjoy tequila’s flavours and aromas.
Tequila is a spirit distilled from the blue agave, a spiky plant native to Mexico. While there are several types of agave plants, most tequilas only use the blue variety. Tequilas are divided into categories depending on how long they have been aged in barrels after distillation: blanco (“white”) tequila either isn’t aged at all or up to a maximum of two months; reposado (“rested”) have been aged for up to a year; anejo (“aged”) for up to three years, and super anejo for more than that. All prices are from the LCBO.
Jose Cuervo Platino
Blancos
Blancos will almost always be completely clean, white spirits. The most distinctive part of all tequila, a pungent aroma reminiscent of the agave fruit, dominates the nose, with slight variations in each brand. One of the cleanest is 1800 Silver ($35.95): Besides the agave scent and a faint touch of black pepper and lemon on the palette, there isn’t much there to savour or analyse. Try using it in a margarita made with fresh lime juice and agave syrup in place of regular sugar syrup.
El Jimador Blanco ($29.95) starts off with a strong aroma of lemons and ginger, but then mellows into melon and grapefruit on the second whiff. Take a sip, and the fruits in the nose combine with an easy-going spiciness. The pricier Jose Cuervo Platino ($79.95) is heavier in general, with a nose full of almond biscotti. It tastes just like the nose, eventually smoothing out into a nougaty texture, unique to any tequilas I’ve tried.
Cabo Wabo Reposado
Reposados
Things get a little more interesting with the reposados. With colours ranging from pale straw to light honey, the aging of woods like oak start to bring together the notes from the blancos into something that can better stand on its own. The palettes grow warmer and sometimes quite surprising. Gran Centenario’s ($46.95) colour resembles supermarket apple juice, but the palette is very smooth, resembling an agave-apple juice cocktail—mostly in a good way.
The popular Cabo Wabo Reposado ($74.95) may be best known for its founder, Van Halen singer Sammy Hagar, but it’s an impressive tequila regardless of the brand power. The bright gold colour prepares you for the honeyed nose with a faint bourbon note. You’ll taste an excellent mix of honey and vanilla that slowly winds into a long, warm finish.
Anejos
Prepare for darker colours and warmer tastes with anejos. Keep them in the cabinet for sipping neat, as they do not belong in a cocktail unless you want to waste these pricy bottles. Cazadores ($44.95) starts off with a dessert-like nose with hints of caramel and sweet tarts. It’s warm but softer on the palette, its age helping to mellow the alcohol burn you’ll find in younger spirits. Burnt almonds lace the long finish, and its viscosity will coat your mouth for a long while.
The super-classy Don Julio 1942 retails for a whopping $139.05, supposedly gaining extra flavour and refinement through a second distillation process at the company’s Pot Still 6 (maybe it’s like Power Rangers, when the Sixth Ranger is introduced later in the season and has special powers the other five didn’t). It isn’t actually spirit distilled in 1942, although it has been aged for at least two and a half years, relatively long for tequila. Its nose presents dark maple syrup, and tastes smoother than most tequila, with rain-soaked wood and fruit notes. The finish coats the tongue like a rich red wine, then a damned fine dark chocolate.
Tlacuache Mezcale Organico
Mescal
Mescal is fundamentally different from the rest of the pack. Unlike tequila, mescal can be made from a variety of agave plants, leading to some unique flavours you won’t find in their blue agave-only siblings. Jaral de Berrio’s ($36.95) nose contains hints of berry patches in addition to the agave hit, with much stronger citrus notes. The finish is short and spicy. The organic Tlacuache Mezcale Organico ($49.95) is so different from other tequila that it’s got enough going on to stimulate most Scotch fanatics. Its smokiness was vaguely similar to an Islay Scotch, but instead of the sea-salt pungency that most associate with Laphroaig or Arbeg, it feels more like roasted chipotle peppers or a Texas BBQ pit. It tastes smoky, but not salty, with grapes, berries and cucumber. The long and powerful finish fills your mouth with smoke but, curiously, gets fruitier as time passes.
