Image: George Pimentel
‘Rogue Fashion Week,’ or rather the I’m-too-good-for-Mastercard-Toronto-Fashion-Week week, saw the debut of Mackage’s Fall 2012 collection at the Distillery District’s Fermenting Cellar at 55 Mill Street. On an aesthetic level, Canadian designer duo Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan have always maintained a distinct Canuck look, combining heavier materials like leather and down quilt with sleek, forward styles — and this time around the show’s offerings for women (and men!) were no different.
For the most part, the fall collection focused on what Mackage does best: outerwear. Leather jackets came in all forms and sizes, from coats with leather sleeves for women (a huge trend for fall) to stitched biker jackets for men. Wool also dominated the runway, where coats were lined and sleeved with the fuzzy fabric. Warm accessories like fur circle scarves, leather boots, and long leather gloves complemented the final looks.
Image: George Pimentel
For womenswear, oversized lapels on jackets were everywhere — done in either buttery soft leathers or accentuated with a shearling trim. Details like detached hems and asymmetrical zippers added visual interest while maintaining the coats’ wearability factor. For men, leather and down jackets in a variety of styles (from double breasted to toggle coats), which were drowned in fur via attached hoods or accessories like an oversized fur collar. Mackage’s affection for the finer fabrics, like said leather and fur, is either a fashion kid’s dream or PETA’s worst nightmare; either or, it’s undeniable the jackets will keep you warm in our cool sub-zero temperatures.
……Compared to Mackage’s previous Spring 2012 collection, which showed an airier colour palette of whites and creams, the brand seemed to take a darker and bolder turn for the fall as well. Skinny black pants, done in a leather or coated denim, accompanied the mostly-black collection while pops of red helped revivify and add punch to the dusky show. ……
Image: George Pimentel
The collection seemed to fluctuate in cohesion at times too, where the odd girly cocktail dress or peplum shirt would appear in the midst of an otherwise more utilitarian collection. But the sweeter items did work when paired with a kick-ass leather jacket or boot, keeping the signature rough-and-tough look the brand strives upon while still showcasing a refreshing soft side. The show ended with a bang, of course, with appearances by Calgary-native supermodel Heather Marks and Nicola Formichetti’s muse Rick Genest (otherwise known as “Rico The Zombie Boy” or “that cool guy in the Lady Gaga ‘Born This Way’ video.”)
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Christian Allaire writes on style for Toronto Standard. Follow his tweets here: @chrisjallaire.
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