What better way to celebrate Canada’s birthday, and 200 years of peace on our shores, than with a pair of premium local wines. Both of these exceptional examples are from Prince Edward County, a region rapidly becoming the source of some of the most serious wines in the country.
2010 Closson Chase South Clos Chardonnay, VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario $39.95 (Winery direct)
Just 220 cases produced of this, the top PEC 2010 chardonnay from Closson Chase in my view. There’s significant weight and richness, intensity without heaviness, and a wonderful range of non-primary aromas and flavours mainly in the honey-roasted orchard fruit, crème brulée, toasted barley and baked apple crumble spectrum. The palate is almost thick and mouth coating, yet an underlying streak of acidity and scouring minerality tidy up the finish. Excellent length and depth, and again, at an amazing 12.7 per cent alcohol. This will be a fascinating wine to follow over time – very curious to see how this evolves. But considering the concentration and structure, I’d say this will age comfortably until the end of the decade.
Best: 2012 – 2018
Serving Temp.: 11ºC
Pairing: Boiled lobster with drawn butter
2010 The Old Third Vineyard Pinot Noir, Prince Edward County, Ontario $42.00 (Winery direct)
The 2010 from The Old Third Vineyard is a terrific example of County pinot noir. The warmth of the vintage shows through, offering sweet red berry – raspberry, red cherry, currant – aromas, very delicate and nuanced. Wood is very well-integrated, merely a light frame of spice, allowing the characteristic stoniness of the region to take centre stage. The texture is silky-firm, with light, seamless tannins and the finish is long and perfumed. A very refined, elegant expression all in all that will appeal to fans of the old world, Burgundian style (very Volnay-like in fact), and a wonderful addition to the Ontario wine repertoire.
Best: 2012 – 2018
Serving Temp.: 16ºC
Pairing: Magret of duck with Niagara cherry sauce
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John Szabo is a master sommelier and wine writer for Toronto Standard. Follow his tweets here: @johnszabo.
More recommendations by John Szabo at www.johnswines.com
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