In this exclusive series, photographer Voula Monoholias goes behind the curtain to see where and how creatives work and live.
This week Monoholias captures the workspace of Charlie Baker-Collingwood, Proprietor of Henry Herbert Tailors on Savile Row.
Tell us a bit about the unique Savile Row service you/Henry Herbert provides:
Savile Row in London is the golden mile of bespoke tailoring. Henry Herbert himself used to be shirt maker to King Charles I in 1630 and today, in 2013, the firm Henry Herbert Tailors is a London tailor, making bespoke suits and bespoke shirts. We wanted to offer a competitive edge and bring the traditions of Savile Row tailoring into the 21st century. And so the ‘Savile Row by Scooter’ service was born: located in the heart of Savile Row, but meeting customers around the clock with our fleet of custom-built Vespa scooters. Our trained tailors, who are also trained motorcyclists, work around the clock to meet customers wherever they may be to make perfectly fitting suits and shirts
What makes Savile Row so special?
Savile Row is a short stretch of road, only a mile long, but that mile contains the most skilled trouser makers, suit makers, cutters, seamstresses and tailors from around the world. It is quite simply the home of bespoke tailoring. It is the standard that all other tailors around the world work to. As a result, it attracts people from all over the world to create a world-class environment. However, it is a place that is constantly changing too, with a mix of traditional firms and younger firms such as Henry Herbert. As much as we can learn from the old masters, hopefully they might be able to take some food for thought from our novel and innovative ways of delivering customer excellence today.
London has been named the most fashionable capital city in the world two years in a row. In your opinion, what is it about Londoners that makes them so stylish?
The very fabric of London is its variety – the languages spoken, the melting pot of nationalities that congregate in this global capital. This, coupled with the quintessential British style heaped in its traditions, is a formula for some of the best-dressed people from around the world. From the exquisitely dressed Savile Row legends such as James Bond to the hip-hop fashionistas in Shoreditch, such as Professor Green, together they all combine to create the fashionable city that London is today. But it has happened very naturally. London has never tried or considered itself to be fashionable. Just a combination of factors have created it as a foundation of global style.
Who is the best-dressed male, in your opinion?
Henry Herbert, of course! Although he is only a character today, rather than an actual person, he is the symbol of great British style: slim, tall, tapered trousers, waisted jacket, and polished shoes. Apart from Henry himself, there are some very high profile style ambassadors – but style also comes with confidence. But I will give him this; Don Draper doesn’t look too bad! And that is a question we are often asked, ‘can you make me a Mad Men suit?!’ Yes, we can!
Do clothes make the man?
No! The man makes the clothes. But the clothes do help him! And the proof of this is the ever-changing trends and styles of clothes. There is so much accessorizing around the clothes that what we wear can make or break the style of someone. They are delicate choices. Small decisions. A crisp white shirt. Polished penny loafers. Groomed and polished presentation. They are all factors that can distinguish average clothes from great clothes.
What are the most important elements in a man’s dress?
Confidence, manners, and style. There are no rules left any more, just preference, and it is the confidence to wear what you want to wear that makes you feel good. Everything else should naturally follow.
What advice would you give an aspiring tailor?
An aspiring tailor should see himself or herself (and a female tailor is called a kipper as they traditionally work in twos to ward of the advances of other male tailors) as a manager. They will become managers not just of the quality of their work, but the presentation and marketing of their work to their peers and customers. They must be managers of customer excellence (and sometimes patience) and managers of a vision of where they want their tailoring destiny to take them. In addition, they must learn the art of patience – the very creation of a suit or shirt takes time.
Favourite London bar to unwind after work?
Without a doubt, sitting at The Colbert in Sloane Square on a summery evening – watching the buzz of London rush past, in one of the prettiest areas of London.
Where would you take your most valued client for dinner in London?*
My favourite restaurant without a doubt is Marco Pierre White’s The Belevdere, in Holland Park. It is tucked away in the middle of central London, sandwiched between a zoo and a park, decorated in the most fabulous art deco style with exquisite food…. at costs which do not break the bank. It is effortlessly stylish; the execution to the highest standard and they work extremely hard behind the scenes. All the essence of Henry Herbert Tailors.
Follow Henry Herbert Tailors on Twitter: @HenryHerbert
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Voula Monoholias is a contributing photographer for Toronto Standard. Follow her on Twitter @voulavous.
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