My first impression of Dear Frankie‘s Fall 2012 collection is ‘Mmmmmm… cozy.’ The loungewear and unmentionables label specializes in comfort and clothes made for movement. Recently, I was able to coax Dear Frankie creator and designer Allicia Martin out of her studio (where she’s still putting finishing touches on her Fall ’12 collection) to talk about the label’s conception, mantra, and just where she got the name from.

After graduating from Ryerson’s design program in 2012, the Edmonton-born former fitness model left a job at Sears to help a friend construct bras for an upcoming showroom. Leaving the original patterns on the floor and opting to create her own unique collection started a fire in Martin that spawned a brand now in it’s third season. Based in Toronto, and helmed completely by Martin (she’s even her own retailer), Dear Frankie is about much more than warmth and comfort.

“I design for a woman who is like me, stays home, works from home…that’s how it all started,” Martin tells me over coffee. “I was tired of wearing leggings or sweats to work at home in. Just because no one is going to see you doesn’t mean you don’t want to feel and look good. That’s the idea behind Dear Frankie. You can be comfortable lying on the couch or you can pair it with a great necklace and a great pair of heels, go out and look fabulous. They’re transitional from day to night.” 

Keeping her collections to simple silhouettes and stretchy fabrics, Martin maintains that her pieces are ‘easy clothes’ for fashion-forward ladies who use her garments as a canvas, keeping them simple or piling on accessories. Using a recipe of modal, bamboo, stretch lace and jersey, Dear Frankie offers customers everything from triangle bras and high waisted thongs to harem pants and maxi dresses. 

“I started with a small, really conscious collection,” she says. “By Spring 2011 it got more lounge wear and that’s where my creativity is. The underwear is the same style but just with more colours each season. Obviously styles change but for the most part there will always be a maxi in my collection, always be some kind of legging, harem pant…they don’t go out of style.”

Like most designers, Martin works from a seasonal storyboard that surrounds a theme, silhouette or colour palette that she feels a connection with. While she doesn’t limit herself to only what she places on it, the storyboard helps her stay focused and on track with one idea that will carry through each collection. On the board for Fall ’12 is a series of black and white images, the Hollywood sign and swatches of light pinks and blues. She admits that ‘summery’ colours are a risk for colder seasons, but Martin believes customers will appreciate the break from repeated shades of burgundy, forest green and burnt orange.

“It’s my most creative one yet,” she says excitedly. “It’s a change of silhouette and a change of style. I haven’t decided when to launch yet, the weather is a deciding factor. Maybe end of September. When the weather is so nice, no one wants to think about fall and winter clothes.” 

Keeping clients happy is a top priority for Martin. After shipping garments to their buyers, she always invites feedback. Obviously she loves hearing compliments, but accepts any form of criticism as well. For a designer new to the industry, Martin says that critism not only helps her understand her clients better but also provides her with the neccessary information to better herself both as a designer and as a business woman. In addition to online sales, Martin regularly hosts shopping parties at the houses of her customers for a chance to widen her base as well as rerelease previous collection pieces or sale items.

“You could be the coolest designer with the greatest designs but at the end of the day if nobody buys what you’re making, what’s the point?” Martin asks. “Unless you’re doing it solely as an art outlet, you’re doing it to get it out there and on women so you have to make what they want. Of course it sucks getting an email saying someone doesn’t like what you’ve sent them but it’s only going to help me get better so I encourage it.” 

When I ask about her label’s name, Martin admits that she almost went with Allicia Martin for it’s simplicity and truth. Questions about proper spelling arose however and she decided to change it. Taking notes from Hanky Panky, Martin wanted the name to be short, fun and have the ability to translate to menswear or swimwear in case she wanted to branch out in the future. Inspired by her Chihuahua Frank, Martin wrestled with possible names like My Frankie, Dear Frankie and Little Frankie. In the end (obviously) Dear Frankie won out.   

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Bianca Teixeira writes about style for Toronto Standard. Follow her on Twitter at @BeeLauraTee.

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