It seems that our brains have a hard time sorting out the things that are not familiar. In the food world, it’s what they call an “acquired taste,” something that you’re bound to hate at first, like olives or anchovies or caviar, but that over time, as you are exposed to it, learn about it, and think that you should like it, you eventually develop a taste for it. I remember the first time I tried an olive. I thought it was the most horrible thing I had put in my mouth up to that point in my life (seven years). Many years later, and I could eat olives by the barrel-full.
But what is it exactly about these and other foods (and drinks) that’s unpleasant? Why do we like some molecules and dislike others, and how do we come to like some of those same molecules in time? There’s some genetic programming involved: our brains are hardwired to be weary of bitter substances, since most natural poisons have a bitter taste (and olives are bitter). But once you’ve figure out that olives aren’t going to kill you, then the path is opened for you to start enjoying them. However the chemical composition of the olive hasn’t changed; the same chemicals are triggering the same electric twitch in the taste buds and sending the same message to the brain now as they did when I was seven. So what’s changed? The taste buds haven’t evolved to enjoy olives. The answer is that I’ve changed. What was unfamiliar has become familiar, and we accept, and like, familiar things. It’s purely in the brain.
The unfamiliar aversion is not limited to food and drink of course. People’s dislike of the unknown is also neatly illustrated by the results of typical focus group studies. In the world of television, for example, prospective shows are regularly screened in front of focus group audiences to gauge reactions, often the make or break moment for the production. Take the well-known example of the hugely popular television show Seinfeld. The pilot episode tested so badly with the focus group that instead of making prime time on NBC’s 1989 fall schedule, it was only later slotted in as a midseason replacement. Yet it went on to be one of the most successful shows of all-time, so it couldn’t have been a terrible concept. Why did the focus group get it so wrong? Because there hadn’t been anyone like Jerry Seinfeld on TV before. The show was too different from anything else to be liked on the first viewing. It takes time for people to warm up to new things.
So the next time you spit something horrible out, it’s worth a moment to stop and consider what’s so horrible about it. Can you articulate what’s so off-putting about the flavour? Consider, after all, that there’s nothing to be gained and plenty to be lost by being a picky eater or drinker; the world of flavour and nutritional possibilities is reduced. Maybe you just need to give those molecules a chance to get to know you better.
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John Szabo is a master sommelier and wine writer for Toronto Standard. Follow his tweets here: @johnszabo.
More recommendations by John Szabo at www.johnswines.com
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