Neptuno mobile oyster bar.
“Toronto is a great oyster hub,” admits Lirad Kligman, co-owner of oyster catering company Neptuno. “It’s fostered by the diversity of oysters available and by the masses that love them–but we found that the industry has been stagnant over the past 15 to 20 years. There hasn’t been much recent innovation and the general public’s conception of oysters is limited.”
When I talked to Lirad, I tried not to let my oyster apathy show through–but I think he was almost expecting it. I had never really connected with the little guys. Despite having tried them a handful of times–at bad media parties, fancier weddings–but I was never that impressed. In my experiences, the flavours always fell flat; the promise of raw, fresh goodness left me perpetually disappointed with my chewy, tasteless reality. Neptuno’s existence alone is a direct reference to the need to shake things up and take oyster consumption to the next level–and this is a change that we should all welcome.
Neptuno offers a different kind of oyster experience from what Toronto is used to–with a holistic sensory philosophy, enviable knowledge, and endless passion, Neptuno’s oysters boast some distinguishing features that make them stand out. But far more important than their unique approach is their finished product: Neptuno’s oysters taste the way oysters are supposed to taste. Whether you already love the little bivalve moluscs or haven’t yet connected with them, these are the oysters of your dreams.
“We decided that the opportunity is ripe to reimagine oysters by creating new ways in which they can be enjoyed,” Lirad explained. This reimagining takes the same form we’ve been seeing in food production across the board: sustainability and local sourcing are trends that make for good food with good feelings. Neptuno’s strong stance on environmentally responsible, Canadian-based oyster farming is part of a sustainable seafood revolution lead by Vancouver’s Ocean Wise sustainable seafood program. Their farming practices boast a close to zero-net environmental impact, ensuring that future generations of oysters and oyster farming are safe.
Their attention to environmental issues is echoed in their presentation methods. “Our oyster bar is carved out of a solid piece of reclaimed 3,000-year-old redwood that mimics the visual appeal of ocean waves,” Lirad explains. “How often, as Torontonians, do we have the privilege of enjoying a food exactly as it is found in its natural environment?” The redwood plate is a constant reminder of the sustainable nature Neptuno’s oysters, and the attention being paid to honest farming, cultivation, and consumption.
And while many of Toronto’s oysters are shipped from all over the world, from as far away as France and New Zealand, Neptuno takes advantage of Canada’s east and west coasts, which contain some of the world’s best oysters. Despite the many benefits of local sourcing–like lower carbon emissions and supporting Canadian industries–for a food that is served live, the closer they are raised and caught, the quicker they get to the table, the fresher the better.
Responsible environmental practices aside, the real enjoyment of oysters rests on the taste–the ocean saltiness, the subtle fruity flavours, and, as Lirad says, “the soft yet ample texture with a delicate crunchiness,” delicate taste sensations that he likens to the concept of terroir with grapes in wine. “We view the oyster as a canvas brimming with culinary potential. Each oyster, with its unique flavour profile, is creatively paired with subtle ingredients that highlight the oyster’s characteristics. The possibilities for imagination are endless.”
One such possibility is Lirad’s current favourite menu item: A P.E.I.-grown Lucky Lime oyster paired with a watermelon and Izumi sake gelée and a touch of wasabi. “The watermelon brings out the aromatic fruitiness of the Lucky Lime while the Izumi sake, brewed in Toronto’s Distillery District by the Ontario Spring Water Sake Company, leaves a subtle fresh acidity on the palate. It’s a perfect blend of flavours.“
I think, friends, that we’ve found some oysters to get excited about. And here’s some very good news: you don’t have to take my word for any of this–or even Lirad’s. Neptuno, and their 3,000-year-old reclaimed redwood will be a vendor at June’s Toronto Underground Market on Saturday, June 9th. Go visit them for a taste of Toronto’s best oysters. I’ll be there, singing their praises some more.
In the meantime, you can check out their story, packages, and menu at neptuno.ca
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Laura Kathleen is a writer, editor, and food enthusiast.
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