Szabo's Theory of (Wine) Relativity

The Convergence of availability, consistency, value, quality and cheap-ness in the wine buying continuum

Szabo’s Theory of Relativity: The Convergence of Availability, Consistency, Value, Quality and Cheap-ness in the Wine Buying Continuum

It doesn’t take Einstein to understand that everything in the world is relative, including value. So let’s get a handle on what value is. Value doesn’t mean inexpensive. Value exists at all price levels. Krug Grande Cuvée ($254.15) is far better value than Krug Clos d’Ambonnay Blanc de Noirs 1995 ($4529.00), just as Chteau Margaux 2006 ($799.00) is better value than 2006 Pétrus ($2000.00). None of these wines is, however, inexpensive. So what? you say. I agree, so what. While philosophically accurate, this isn’t terribly helpful, unless you’re seeking value in the $100s range per bottle. So here’s my crack at a useful list of wines; it’s not a value list, but rather a list that triangulates a whole bunch of relative criteria and pinpoints a group of wines that I’d be happy to have in my glass. So, to qualify, a wine must be:

1. available (i.e. you can find and buy without passing through security at Pearson)
2. so consistent from year to year that it can be recommended regardless of vintage
3. a relative value (compared to other wines from the same region, or similar styles)
4. enthusiastically recommended for the pleasure it delivers
5. inexpensive (Tuesday night sort of prices)

So, in no particular order, here’s my Theory of Wine Relativity:

1. Cono Sur Pinot Noir, Casablanca Valley Chile

LCBO 341602 | 750 mL | $ 10.95

Virtually everything put out by Chile’s Cono Sur is worth a look, especially the pinot noir, which over-delivers on quality year after year at an untouchable price that makes most other pinot producers around the world green with envy.

2. Trapiche Broquel Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina

VINTAGES 17210 | 750 mL | $ 13.65

Among the vast sea of malbec exported by Argentina today, Trapiche maintains an edge in sheer quality, consistency and value for money.

3. Montalto Nero d’Avola Syrah, Sicily, Italy

LCBO 621151 | 750 mL | $ 8.95

Popular international star meets local hero: Montalto’s Syrah-Nero d’Avola is a wine of surprising depth and complexity for the price, not to mention age-worthy, as a 7 year-old accidental experiment recently proved.

4. Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rouge, Rhône Valley, France

LCBO 263640 | 750 mL | $ 11.95

The southern Rhône is an excellent source of fine value-for-money wines, and La Vieille Ferme has been delivering on the promise for decades.

5. Miguel Torres Coronas Tempranillo, Cataluña, Spain

LCBO 29728 | 750 mL | $ 13.95

A juicy, spicy, highly food friendly wine that won’t wow with depth and concentration, but then again it won’t matter because the bottle will be empty before you notice.

5. McWilliams Hanwood Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, South Eastern Australia

LCBO 214577 | 750 mL | $ 14.95

Blending wines from a vast area has it advantages: a determined style and quality can be consistently achieved year after year, and historic McWilliams hits the mark.

6. Bodegas Castaño Hécula Monastrel, Yecla, Spain

VINTAGES 718999 | 750 mL | $ 13.95

A wine as reliable as the sunshine and warmth of southern Spain, Castaño’s Hécula monastrel is a perennial favorite of experts and casual drinkers alike.

7. Gonzalez-Byass Nutty Solera Oloroso Sherry, Spain

VINTAGES 35204 | 750 mL | $ 12.95

Non-vintage sherry is by definition consistent quality, and the vast reserves stored in the soleras of giant Gonzalez Byass make the Nutty Oloroso a sure bet. Plus, the level of intensity and complexity for the price can scarcely be matched by any wine, anywhere.

8. Cusumano Nero d’Avola, Sicily, Italy

LCBO 143164 | 750 mL | $ 10.00

One of the leading producers in Sicily’s recent quality revolution, Cusumano’s authentic expression of Nero d’Avola is a best buy year after year. Used to be priced at $14.95 when sold in consignment — good job on negotiating, LCBO buyers!

9. Quinta dos Carvalhais Duque de Viseu Red, Dão, Portugal

VINTAGES 546309 | 750 mL | $ 13.95

A region that deserves more international attention, the Dão turns out some characterful and flavourful wines at very fair prices. The Duque de Viseu line from Quinta dos Carvalhais (both red and white) are always fine value.

10. Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz-Cabernet, South Eastern Australia

LCBO 285544 | 750 mL | $ 16.45

Penfolds may be a large company, but they are surely among the most consistent producers on a continent that prides itself on consistent style/quality wines. The Koonunga Hill Shiraz-Cabernet has been a standard classic since its launch in 1976.

_____

John Szabo is a master sommelier and wine writer for Toronto Standard. Follow his tweets here: @johnszabo.

More recommendations by John Szabo at www.johnswines.com

For more, follow us on Twitter @TorontoStandard and subscribe to our newsletter.