2009 DEGENFELD TOKAJI/FURMINT, Tokaji Hégyálja, Hungary $16.00 #263905
Furmint is the uniquely local grape, and Tokaj is the place in northeastern Hungary bordering Slovakia and the Ukraine. The region is famous for its legendary sweet wines, made for at least the last 500 years, but every vintage sees growing production of dry whites from native grapes. Furmint is a powerful, spicy variety with an ability to retain mouth-watering acid even when fully ripe, making it a very bbq-friendly wine. Degenfeld’s 2009 furmint is beginning to show some maturity, with slightly candied citrus fruit emerging over the light caramel and baking spice notes imparted by oak barrel ageing. Intensity, depth and breadth of flavour are above the mean, not to mention minerality. This reminds me of a fine South African old vines chenin blanc (how’s that for esoteric comparison). Lingering finish. At peak now. Best: 2012-2014. Serving temp.: 10ºC. Pairing: barbequed lemon-herb chicken, lavender honey-glazed grilled pork, Hoisin marinaded grilled salmon.
2009 LAS ROCAS GARNACHA, DO Calatayud, Spain $14.95 #95190
The vast fields of old vine grenache in northern Spain, south of the Pyrenees in regions like Calatayud, are fertile grounds for value seekers. This sub-$15 example packs in a massive amount of rich, sweet, very ripe, cherry and plum jam, raspberry pie flavours, alongside scorched earth, black tea and wild resinous herbs. It’s almost like a bbq in a glass itself, and fans of the southern Rhône will feel right at home with this wine. Best 2012-2014. Serving temp.: 16ºC. Pairing: Grilled chorizo sausages, flank steak with chimichurri, rosemary-scented lamb chops.
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More recommendations by John Szabo at www.johnswines.com.
John Szabo is a master sommelier and wine writer for Toronto Standard. Follow his tweets here: @johnszabo.
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