Queen Victoria’s favorite tipple was German Riesling, especially from the Rheingau region, and even more specifically, from the village of Hochheim, overlooking the Rhein River. So popular at one time was the wine from Hochheim, that German riesling came to be known generically in the UK as ‘hock,’ a term still around today.
In honour of the Queen, here are some fine German rieslings to get you through the weekend.
Domdechant Werner Hocheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Auslese 2003, Rheingau, Germany $27.95 #931386
A forward and mature example of Rheingau riesling, in a prime drinking window, with ripe, fleshy stone fruit and lightly honeyed character; terrific flavour intensity and length. It’s somewhere between off-dry and medium-dry on the palate, though not sweet enough to serve with sweet desserts. This would make a great afternoon sipping wine, or, as we like to roll in the wine business, a late night nightcap after a long meal with multiple big reds.
Best: Now to 2015.
Serving Temp.: 9ºC.
Pairing: Chilled soba noodles with ginger and soy.
Hoffmann Simon Riesling Spätlese 2009, Qmp, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany $19.95 #216499
Already quite mature and displaying the abundant ripeness of the 2009 vintage, Hoffman’s Goldtröpfchen shows plenty of ripe stone fruit and cherry blossom/peach blossom character, with present if not marked minerality. The palate is lively, off-dry but balanced by riveting acidity, with great length and depth. Tough to compete with wines like this on sheer varietal or regional character for your money.
Best: 2012 to 2020.
Serving Temp.: 8ºC.
Pairing: Fresh Ontario green asparagus with classic hollandaise.
Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett 2008, Prädikatswein, Mosel, Germany $21.95 #249730
From the cooler 2008 vintage, this is textbook classic Mosel riesling, all fresh peach-apricot and wet slate. The palate is just off-dry but balanced by riveting acids. Pure, precise, flavourful and fantastically elegant all around. I could drink this all year.
Best: 2012 to 2018.
Serving Temp.: 8ºC.
Pairing: Aperitif, tempura shrimp.
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John Szabo is a master sommelier and wine writer for Toronto Standard. Follow his tweets here: @johnszabo.
More recommendations by John Szabo at www.johnswines.com
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