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Weekend Wine Recommendations: Grower Champagnes
A selection of fine value "grower" Champagnes.

NV Champagne R&L Legras Blanc de Blancs – $55.00

This is a house favourite around my place, made almost exclusively from Chardonnay grown in the grand cru-rates village of Chouilly in the Ctes des Blancs. Half is from the 2008 vintage, with the other half split between 2007 and 2006. Whatever the case, each year this wine seems to have a beguiling aroma of white chocolate and an extraordinarily long toasty-brioche flavoured finish. A refined, elegant, classy bottle. Best 2012-2018.

Agent: Groupe Soleil, contact Stephen Cohen (gsoleil@rogers.com)

NV Champagne Laherte Blanc de Blanc Brut Nature, France – $55.00

This selection was made by a 7th generation family estate in the Ctes des Blancs, the epicentre for the best Chardonnary-based Champagnes. The nose is fine and elegant, all class and highly mineral. The palate delivers stunning balance, dines, underlying length and power, with a filigree, silky texture. Best 2012-2018.

Agent: Groupe Soleil, contact Stephen Cohen (gsoleil@rogers.com)

NV Champagne Georges Laval Cumires Brut Nature – $75.00

This is “the best grower Champagne you’ve never heard of,” according to Champagne expert Peter Liem. And with just 8,000 bottles of total production over several cuvees, it’s not hard to figure out why – this is a rare and exquisite bubbly. The cuvee is from the town of Cumires, with 50% Chardonnay and 25% each of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, partially fermented in old, small barrels. “Brut Nature” means zero dosage (or sugar added), so this is bone dry. The nose orders some curious but captivating bean sprout, fresh-steamed edamame, soy bean, and toasted wheat bread notes. The palate delivers extraordinary intensity and length, and loads of minerals. All in all, it’s a highly idiosyncratic Champagne that won’t be for everybody, but go on, try it at least once.

Agent: Groupe Soleil, contact Stephen Cohen (gsoleil@rogers.com)

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