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XX Files: Veronica from Ici Bistro
The Standard's weekly item on Toronto's better bartenders


All images by Kerry and Ivy Knight

Name/alias: Veronica Saye, but everyone calls me Vee. It’s not so much a nickname as it is a way to get people to stop calling me Vanessa or Victoria.

Current bar: I manage, bartend and serve at a restaurant called Ici (…that’s French for ‘here’).

How long in the business: Eight-ish years. (I’m writing this at Sneaky Dee’s right now, as I was calculating that in my head, my waitress came over and asked me for ID. God, I love this place).

First drink/drunk: Typical. I was 14, stole a bottle of wine from my parents with a girlfriend of mine, got pretty silly, got caught, got sick, got in a bunch of trouble. Predictable beginning to a passionate love story (with wine, not my high school friend).

What influences me: My inspiration is mainly influenced by the people in my life. I’m incredibly lucky to have friends that are unbelievably talented, constantly challenge me, and are really open and willing to teach. I’m also incredibly influenced by the talent in the kitchen we have here at Ici. My chef de cuisine, Maxime Roy, and I have been working together a lot lately. Wine and food are what we do best here, so we’ve been trying to showcase that in our cocktails using French wine and cooking techniques. For example, poaching Asian pears in white wine with star anise and juniper berries, pureed with brandy and then topped with sparkling wine. We called the cocktail “Jennifer,” because that’s what Max, who is extremely French, thought juniper berries were called.

Best barfly: When I first started, like a lot of people in this industry, I worked in some questionable joints, filled with lots of regulars, the kind of regulars that expect you to have their drink on the table before they even sit down, the kind of regulars that won’t even talk to you until you’ve worked there a few weeks, because lets be honest, its their bar, you’re just another bartender passing through. But I’ve met some amazing people in my time behind the wood, hell my boyfriend and I met four and a half years ago while I was slinging pints of Canadian and shots of Jager to crusty dudes three times my age. If I had to pick a favorite though it would be my old buddy Morris, this amazing old biker, from a really small French town on the east coast. At this particular bar I worked alone so he would always show up on his Harley around last call, order one Coors Light and a b52, and wait until I closed the bar and got in a cab. That guy had my back. I couldn’t understand a word he said through that small town French accent. I guess come to think of it he was training me for my current gig a bit, as I often wish my Chef, Jean-Pierre Chalet, came with subtitles.

Cinematic bartender: A well-known fact about me: I am the most pop culturally illiterate human being in existence. I haven’t seen Barfly, or Cocktail, not to mention other non-booze related classics. In fact just last night, Josh F. Lindley gave me flack for not having seen Alien, or The Exorcist… But I digress. Naturally this question had me turning to pals for suggestions. My best friend showed me a video of Andy Samberg’s guest appearance on Portlandia. Long story short, he makes some ridiculous cocktail made with rotten banana and egg shells, hands it to a girl, and she starts telling him it’s the best drink she’s ever had. It brought to mind all the stories I’ve heard from bartenders about the first time they heard someone say that to them. I think we probably all have an anecdote or two, and they’re all ridiculous.

Rules: I am an incredibly judgmental bartender. But I keep it to myself and I’m nice, so you have to be nice back. If you just asked me for a shot of PatrĂ³n in my French restaurant, I’m embarrassed for you, but I will nicely tell you I don’t have it, so don’t be a jerk about it.

Celebrity experiences: My first day at Ici, Jessica Biel came in. But again, going back to the pop culturally illiterate thing, I may have had a ton of celebrity experiences, but had no idea. I served Geddy Lee twice before I realized (was told) who he was. My colleague had to play me some Rush songs when we closed so I could fully understand.

Best late-night or morning-after places: Sneaks  (Sneaky Dee’s) is clearly a classic, but after a long night of work, going there is essentially the last thing I want to. I was addicted to the $5 roasted bone barrow at The County General until about a week ago when they changed their hours. These days it’s falafel and a beer on my couch with an episode of Lost.

Lady Marmalade in the east end is incredible, but not licensed. Easy restaurant’s huevos are for sure the best in the city, and the beaver has the most unbelievable caesars for the price point.

Best /worst tip: Best, $700 cash right before Christmas. Worst, $200 walk-out right before Christmas.

Favourite cocktail/beer/wine right now: El Diablo. So refreshing, spicy, and citrusy. So perfect on a hot summer day. No one makes them like Saxy does though.

Watch for: I’ve been doing a guest bartending spot at Unlovable (1415 Dundas west) for the past few months. It’s a lot of fun and a major change of pace for me. At Ici you can look forward to the spring cocktail list, launching next week, as well and the new spring menu.

ICI BISTRO
538 Manning Ave (Harbord and Manning)
416-536-0079      

Kerry and Ivy Knight write the XX Files column for Toronto Standard. Follow them on Twitter at @keppsterr and @IvyKnight.

For more, follow us on Twitter at @torontostandard, and subscribe to our newsletter

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