2010 13th STREET OLD VINES RIESLING VQA Creek Shores, Niagara Peninsula, Canada $23.95 #272617
Formerly known as the G.H. Funk vineyard Riesling, a vineyard planted originally in 1976 with subsequent plantings in the 1980s, these are, by Niagara standards, pretty old vines indeed. It’s my favorite Riesling produced by 13th Street by a good margin, crafted in a reserved, more Germanic style. The 2010 is a terrifically composed, concentrated yet delicate, apple and apple blossom-scented wine, with riveting acids, wonderfully balanced alcohol (12.5%) and superb length. Very classy.
Best: 2012-2018. Serving temp.: 9ºC; pairing: aperitif, mixed greens with herbs and crumbled goat’s cheese.
2008 CHÂTEAU DE FONTENELLES CUVÉE NOTRE DAME CORBIÈRES AC, Languedoc, France $15.95 #269522
I spent a summer season in the 1990s living and cooking in the Languedoc at the only Michelin-starred restaurant in the area, during which time I gained a fondness for the local wines. Back then, they were awesome value, and happily for us, they apparently still are, all these years later. In general, the Corbières produces wild and savage wines based on old vine carignan, and this cuvée is a fine representation. It has an inky-black colour; super ripe, liqueur-like richness, like cassis purée and black raspberry jam, kept fresh by some mint and fresh wild herb notes. The palate is dense, rich, thick, highly concentrated, especially at the price, with a wonderfully wild and savage edge, not to mention exceptional length that makes this a top value for money.
Best: 2012-2016. Serving temp.: 16-18º. Pairing: grilled lamb brochettes, lamb tagine.
More recommendations by John Szabo at johnswines.com.
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John Szabo is a master sommelier and wine writer for Toronto Standard. Follow his tweets here: @johnszabo.
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