Yesterday, Pat McGrath, the world’s most influential makeup artist (Vogue said so, so it must be true), did something she never does: boarded a plane and headed to Toronto. She was only here for the day, and only because Procter & Gamble asked her to come, but still. It was a big deal. I mean, aside from being the Global Cosmetics Creative Design Director for Procter & Gamble, she’s also the makeup artist of choice for a slew of Hollywood starlets, she works on the most high-profile ad campaigns and editorial shoots, and she plays a vital role at every international fashion week, where she literally dictates the season’s beauty trends.
I was among the lucky bunch that got to sit in on her rundown of the Spring/Summer 2012 makeup trends yesterday, where she charmed us with her humour and that dainty English accent of hers, and inspired us with her insider’s glimpse into the world of runway beauty. I adored her so much, in fact, that I’ve even forgiven her (just this once) for showing up bare-faced and asking us to refrain from taking her picture.
According the Pat, bold minimalism was the key trend of the S/S ’12 season. Meaning, the looks focused on one main feature, either the eyes or the lips, and the rest of the face was left fairly subtle. At Louis Vuitton, eyes were framed beautifully by layering 10 sets of false lashes to create a feathered effect, while at Viktor & Rolf, black falsies were topped with a set of bright pink lashes to achieve the desired “living doll” vibe. Keeping the drama on the eyes, Gucci went for a gothic blackened eye, while Miu Miu threw in a swipe of red across the lids for shock value.
The Gucci look (above) consists of TruBlend Foundation, LiquiLineBlast in “Black Fire,” Smoky ShadowBlast in “Onyx Smoke,” Eye Enhancers 1-Kit in “Shimmering Onyx”, LashBlast 24HR Mascara in “Black,” and NatureLuxe Gloss Balm in “Marble.” All products CoverGirl, of course.
It was all about the lips at Balenciaga, with a blackened cherry gloss, while Yohji Yamamoto experimented with an unconventional violet hue that pleased me to no end. The classic poppy red lip made an appearance at Christian Dior and Anna Sui, but Y-3 preferred lips coated in a Barbie-pink silicone, achieved through careful layering of three different products.
So pretty, no? CoverGirl does it with Outlast Lipstain in “Everbloom Kiss,” LipPerfection Lipstick in “Spellbound,” ShineBlast Lip Gloss in “Glow” (in that order).
“Modern vintage,” Pat’s favourite oxymoron, was illustrated via graphic eyeliner, flirty lashes, and pouty lips. Pat gushed over the winged liner at Dolce & Gabbana, which she claims anyone can master with just the slightest extension of the lash line. Paired with perfected skin, groomed brows and some brown liner under the eyes, you’ll be a modern-day Sophia Loren in no time (or so she had me believing).
Try it at home with Dolce & Gabbana‘s Smooth Eye Color Quad in “Femme Fatale” and Crayon Intense eyeliner in “Coffee” on the bottom, “Black” on top.
Flashes of metallic hit the runways in more than just Spring fabrics. Metallic lips–yes, you heard me–reemerged after an extended hiatus, but Pat seemed most smitten by the minty green metal that lined the eyes at Ports 1961.
Get it if you dare with CoverGirl Eye Enhancers 1-kit in “Kaboom Kelly” and Snow Blossom (apply with a wet brush) or Intense ShadowBlast in “Extreme Green,” LashPerfection Mascara in “Brown.”
Those of us who shy away from statement-making looks, and are blessed with flawless skin, will welcome the beautifully bare-faced look. Of course, it’s only a “look:” Pat warns that it actually takes a lot of time and numerous products to make the models look like they’re not wearing makeup (I feel better already). At Stella McCartney and Calvin Klein, bare was all, and Pat nailed it.
According to Pat, the trends for Spring are bold yet minimal and ideal to replicate. That doesn’t mean it’s easy, though. False lashes, for example, require two sets of lashes–one full set and one set for the outer corners only–and a full coat of mascara, plus some liquid liner along the lash line to hide any separation between your natural lashes and the falsies. A red lip is best done as a stain (tap it on with your finger, then re-layer), and as for those Miu Miu red eyes? Yeah, maybe try purple or blue instead.
And don’t wait, either. “All my friends, they run straight to a department store or drugstore the moment something is released,” McGrath said. “And I’m the same, too. Jump straight in a cab, darling, no shame–with my nightgown on, if I see something new.”
“My [television] show would be like a three-part Hoarders–crying and weeping as they try to pull the lip gloss away from me. I’m a little bit excessive, to say the least.”
As soon as the Q&A session ended, this woman after our own hearts thanked us for coming, said she’d see us all next season (amazing!) and promised to wear more makeup next time. Translation: photo ops, I hope? She was then whisked out of the room, almost as quickly as she’d appeared, and I was left wondering if it was all a dream. Reality set in when I noticed that she’d followed us all on Twitter before hopping on her flight back to New York. So basically, we’re virtual friends now and I can die happy.
