Before any fashion show, one expects a pandemonium of sorts to be occurring backstage — stylists yelling, models arriving late, interns crying. But hours before Lucian Matis debuted his Fall 2012 collection at the Fairmont Royal York, where the venue was more intimate than The Tents but infinitely grander, the scene was anything but frantic. In fact, aside from a dizzying array of never-ending phone calls, the designer seemed relatively unfazed by his surroundings. But he assured me that wasn’t the case earlier on. “I actually came in and I felt like we were so behind. With shows like this, everything comes together last second,” said Matis, who was unruffled and pressing his garments (himself!) before the show.

Matis turned a darker leaf this fall in terms of inspiration, citing the linearity of nature as a major catalyst for this season’s designs. The old-world feel of the Fairmont, fit for royalty — literally, accompanied Matis’ fantasy-like collection to a tee. If one looked closely, you could see how the lines of a butterfly wing inspired his intricate, hand-stitched lace dresses. Indeed, the craftsmanship was the real stand-out of the collection, with some of his dresses taking up to twelve days to make. And although Matis refuses to call himself a couturier, “I didn’t study in Paris,” he says, it’s safe to say his work can label him as such.

Matis, right, presses garments beside a feathered showstopper. Photo by Christian Allaire.
“All of these pieces were handmade. The lacing is linked by hand, stitch-by-stitch,” said Matis. “So it’s very laborious. It was an intense collection to make, and I wanted it be an intense experience as well.”

Crocodile leathers, wools, and tulle were aplenty throughout the show. Plumage made appearances in all shapes and sizes on the runway as well, from skirts to capes and trains. The collection was very much so a showy collection, not meant for everyday wear or use, but guests like Corner Gas‘ Gabrielle Miller were sure to be eyeing some pieces for red carpet appearances (she has worn his designs before). In terms of beauty, hair was braided at the back and teased out into ponytails. Models were also styled with dark black circles around their eyes and claw-like fingernails, tipped with vibrant yellows and green hues. You know, because models aren’t creature-y or extraterrestrial enough.  

Braided hair at Matis. Photo by Christian Allaire.
Matis will also be showing his diffusion line, MATIS by Lucian Matis, tonight at The Tents at David Pecaut Square. Although his work’s strongpoint will always be in the details and craftsmanship, Matis decided a more accessible collection was needed to build up his brand even further.

“It’s a trendy, playful, elegant collection. It’s very wearable, and the price point is incredible — dresses for $175, jackets for $195. And most of them are made here in Canada with European fabrics,” said Matis.