Denis Gagnon does not like to hear this—it makes him feel, at 43, a little old—but he is the godfather of Canadian fashion. Rad Hourani and Thomas Tait and dozens of stylists have apprenticed with him; mass-market brands clamour to collaborate with him; editors adore him. Even when you hate the collection, you love the designer. He’s done everything from andro-goth to ironic mall-rave to demi-couture experiments in zippers and fringe; really, the only thing he’s never done is bore.
On the day of his Spring ’12 show at LG Fashion Week, Gagnon sat down over a bad coffee (“it tastes… American”) to ‘splain how he makes everything from florals to running shoes feel new.
You did floral prints this season, which is something everybody else has done, and which no one would expect from Denis Gagnon. How did you make prints feel new?
I wanted to make a mix between the tuxedo and florals, but Laura Ashley kind of flowers.
Like my mom wore.
Well, I am the same age as your mom, probably, so it was me who wore them. Well, not me. But I am old enough to remember. So anyway, I wanted a nice print. I was growing tired of black, black, black, black and white, black. When I found a fabric I really loved, I decided to work with just that, and simple materials, cotton, silk, leather, chiffon. I also painted flowers over the fabric.
You know, I did florals eight years ago, but I didn’t remember. One of my friends told me. She said she still had a dress from that collection. But you know, when you are always creating, you forget.
Do you ever think you just don’t want to do it anymore?
What I don’t want is to be boring. I want to take a risk. Fashion is like that. You have to be risky, otherwise you are repetitive.
You wear the same thing every time I see you. Do you have a uniform?
Yes, because I don’t have the time. Making so many clothes for women, so for myself, I’m too tired. I do sometimes go to Value Village.
Any thrift-hunting tips?
You need to go very often and be patient. But I am not very patient myself.
Do you have any style rules?
[Pause] No.
How do you imagine your SS12 collection being worn on the street?
Well, everybody needs to be a stylist, to mix it up. You don’t wear the Prada hat, the Prada dress, the Prada shoes, the Prada bag anymore.
This collection I am showing more the way it is on the street. I want the [models] to just have their own hair, the way it is when they come in. I don’t want to do it so perfect. And we’re going to show with running shoes. But also with diamonds, you know, from Birk’s.
What was the last thing you bought?
A pair of socks from Simon’s. So stupid. But I needed a really thin pair, and I finally found them there.
And what are you wearing right now?
Rick Owens boots, Rick Owens pants, Rick Owens t-shirt, a Rick Owens jacket, and a scarf from Zara.
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Sarah Nicole Prickett is the Toronto Standard Style Critic.
