Master Sommelier John Szabo visiting a Greek vinyard. So here’s the scenario: on one hand, you have a delectable product of proven quality and value; on the other, a huge potential market of customers who know next to nothing about it. Bringing the two together would benefit everyone but first that chasm of ignorance has to be bridged. You are the country of Greece and the product is Greek wine in all its unique variety; the market is Canada. How do you build the bridge? The answer is John Szabo, Master Sommelier (one of only three in Canada), writer, educator and a wine-grower himself with his own small vineyard in Eger, Hungary. He’s also a black belt in karate – a man not to be taken lightly. The Greeks, in their wisdom, hired him as an ambassador for their wines and for the last six years he has led an annual symposium in Toronto designed to grow our appreciation and understanding of the subject. It’s working. Every May, top Greek producers tour North America – New York, San Francisco, Toronto – bringing their finest wines with the Greek government and the European Union splitting the bill. Szabo’s lecture to an invited audience of sommeliers, agents and wine writers is the keystone of the Toronto event. Years ago, it was all a tad pedagogic – too many unknown grape varieties with difficult names, a wall of old retsina-based prejudices to break down. This year, there was a new energy in the packed ballroom of the Metropolitan Hotel. It may be that the tipping point for Greek wines has been glimpsed, if not yet quite reached – that Moschofilero and Xynomavro are about to enter our consciousness, crowding Chardonnay and Merlot off the shelves of the LCBO… “Patience,” counsels Szabo. “There’s no magic bullet that will suddenly break open the market for countries like Greece, Portugal or Austria, making small amounts of wine from unknown grape varieties in complicated regions. The way forward lies in restaurants, to get the wines onto lists and educate sommeliers who in turn can educate customers.” Every revolution needs a charismatic leader. Assyrtiko from the barren island of Santorini seizes the role. An intense, bone-dry white, tasting of wet stone rather than fruit, it scours the palate the way the scorching winds scour the powdered volcanic rock that passes for soil on Santorini. This was the wine that astonished Szabo at a private tasting back in 2005, an event organized by wine agent Steve Kriaris, and turned him on to the world of Greek wine. “One or two agents like Steve can do more for the wines of a country than dozens of articles or press trips,” says Szabo. “They’re the ones working the streets, visiting restaurants every day, telling the story, representing the right producers and then being diligent.” Assyrtiko’s unique minerality makes it a dazzling aperitif. I have come across it several times recently in top restaurants in London and Chicago – the version produced by Domaine Sigalas is particularly vivid – and pounce whenever I find it. Mr. Sigalas brought his masterpiece to Toronto this year and poured it during the public tasting that followed Szabo’s lecture. The hotel always provides a buffet lunch for the event and I used to chuckle at the menu – an odd mix of prime rib and cheeses, sushi and toasted sandwiches – nothing remotely Greek to be found. But that’s the point, says Szabo. If these wines are to make their mark they must be accepted everywhere, not just on the Danforth. Assyrtiko is spectacular with sushi, and also with grilled rack of lamb. Crisp, fragrant, floral Moschofilero knocks most Pinot Grigio out of the park while another rare aromatic white grape called Malagousia carries the heady scent of muscat grapes, tangerines and tropical fruit and could give Viognier a run for your money. The temptation to define these indigenous Greek grapes by comparing them with better-known varieties is irresistible, but the truth is they are unique. And while we all have a vision of Greece as a sun-drenched Zorban beachscape it’s actually the third most mountainous country in Europe and its vineyards are high and cool enough to produce plenty of crisp, food-friendly wines. John Szabo says it will take years, even decades before those wines become household names. He’s probably right, but how great it would be if recognition came more swiftly! Good for the beleaguered Greek economy which must marshal its few viable, exportable assets asap, but especially good for eager restaurant-goers who want new experiences, soaring quality and the bargain prices that are the happy side-effect of obscurity. THE STANDARD RECOMMENDS: Here are three wines currently available at the liquor store that exemplify Greece’s delectable new direction: BOUTARI ASSYRTIKO SANTORINI 2009 Bone dry white with intense minerality – you’ve never tasted anything like it. Vintages 47985 | 750 mL | $15.95 BOUTARI GRANDE RESERVE 2004 Complex, earty but elegant red from the xinomavro grape, a great value. Vintages 140111 | 750 mL | $ 16.95 BOUTARI MOSCHOFILERO WHITE Refreshing, aromatic white with floral notes, like a pinot grigio that kissed a torrontes. LCBO 172387 | 750 mL | $11.95
